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Displaying items by tag: Another World

The Isles of Scilly, an archipelago formed mainly of five larger inhabited islands at a mere 24 nautical miles off Cornwall, England, is simply another world, having recently travelled to with the Isles of Scilly Steamship Company, writes Jehan Ashmore.

It's a place that has grabbed my attention and intrigue, having passed when taking the ferry from Ireland to France. During these overnight crossings to continental Europe, they take a passage in between Scilly and the iconic Land's End on the south-west tip of Britain.

Scillonian III alongside the quay at Hugh Town, St. Mary's with local inter-island ferries in attendance Scillonian III alongside the quay at Hugh Town, St. Mary's with local inter-island ferries in attendance 

So plans were set in place albeit for a brief visit having booked a day-trip excursion on board the Scillonian III. The 485 passenger ferry which also carries crane-lifted vehicles into its cargo hold, has since 1977 faithfully served islanders and visitors alike for more than four decades on the seasonal route of Penzance Harbour-St. Mary's Harbour. This is located in Hugh Town on St. Mary's, the Isles of Scilly largest inhabited island.

Passengers facilities are predominantly spread on two decks of the 1,255 gross tonnage ferry which features lounges, baby changing room, purser's office and a quiet lounge on the lower deck. As for food and drinks outlets, there is the Western Rocks Coffee Co. located on both the main and upper deck. From here can be accessed the open deck leading to the cruiser stern and on the boat deck is where additional seating is available for sight-seeing. On the deck above is located the funnel amidships, presenting a handsome and traditional profile of the ship registered in Scilly.

Passengers on deck of the Scillonian III take in the sea air and coastal views Passengers on deck of the Scillonian III take in the sea air and coastal views 

At this stage the seasonal service is well under way having begun in March and continues throughout the summer where visitors can experience and explore the way of life on Scilly. They have a population of around 2,000 where facilities for the islanders and visitors alike on St. Mary's are concentrated in Hugh Town with shops, bank, hotels and a range of other accommodation.

One of two café lounges, in this case on the upper deck facing forwardOne of two café lounges, in this case on the upper deck facing forward

During the 2 hour 40 minute crossing, passengers firstly enjoyed the sights of the rugged Cornish coast where in the distance is the landmark of Porthcurno Beach with its history of many a trans-Atlantic and other submarine telegraph cables laid underneath the sand. Next to the beach and perched on the cliff-face is the impressively positioned open-air Minack Theatre and this was followed by Land's End. While out to sea was another bonus as on the horizon was the Wolf Rock Lighthouse.

All this before the Scilly's would loom into view where secluded sandy beaches dotted the scene interspersed with rocky outcrops. To my surprise woodland was among the features in which visitors can set out to explore these unspoilt isles which have the mildest climate in the UK given a micro-climate influenced by the Gulf Stream, lending to colourful flora and fauna that unfolded as I would soon experience ashore while alongside a coastline of turquoise waters. For the wildlife enthusiast are the puffins which arrive to the Isles to breed between April and July.

On arrival at St. Mary's, Hugh Town with its characterful stone-cut architecture is where bike hire is an option to take in a largely traffic-free environment to further explore the main island. Take in a water based activity be it kayaking to snorkling or visit an archaeological site.

As a first time day-tripper, I decided to take the advice of a seasoned traveller which was to head to Juliet’s Garden Restaurant for lunch while taking in the panorama looking back at Hugh Town. In order to get there, I simply took a walk mostly on the coastal path lined with several beaches where the white sand shone with silvery speckles adding to the allure of the archipelago.

St. Mary's is convenienty also a transport hub with connecting inter-island ferry services (run by other operators) sailing to the inhabited isles of St. Martin's, Bryher, St. Agnes and Tresco which features the sub-tropical Abbey Gardens.

The Steamship company also operate inter-island services using the workboat Lyonesse Lady and likewise of Scillonian III, can handle a vehicle. In addition the Swift Lady, a RIB built by Redbay Boats of Co. Antrim, which provides a postal delivery service as well to acting as a back-up vessel to the Lyonesse Lady.

As for the islanders the freight-coaster Gry Maritha provides an essential life-line service on a year-round basis between the islands and Penzance Harbour.

There are also passenger aviation links in the form of SkyBus services operated by The Isle of Scilly Travel (a trading name of the Steamship company) which provides a service from Land's End Airport to St. Mary's where the airport is closely situated to Hugh Town.

Also in Cornwall are their SkyBus services linking the Scilly's and the UK mainland from Newquay Airport with connecting international airline services to Belfast, Dublin and Cork. Plus there's another SkyBus route through Exeter Airport in Devon that has links to Belfast and Dublin respectively.

For the more intrepid traveller when departing Ireland, a suggested itinerary is to take the ferry service from Cork to Roscoff and spend time in Brittany en-route before heading across the English Channel to Plymouth.

From the city head into the West Country by taking a bus or train to reach Penzance where the Isles of Scilly Travel company offers the option and flexibility of taking the Scillonian III, the SkyBus or a combination of both and in either direction.

Another integrated travel ticket option is with the company and Great Western Railways (GWR) which operates services from Bristol, Exeter and London to Penzance.

Published in Ferry

Dublin Bay 21s

An exciting new project to breathe life into six defunct 120-year-old Irish yachts that happen to be the oldest intact one-design keelboat class in the world has captured the imagination of sailors at Ireland's biggest sailing centre. The birthplace of the original Dublin Bay 21 class is getting ready to welcome home the six restored craft after 40 years thanks to an ambitious boat building project was completed on the Shannon Estuary that saved them from completely rotting away.

Dublin Bay 21 FAQs

The Dublin Bay 21 is a vintage one-design wooden yacht designed for sailing in Dublin Bay.

Seven were built between 1903 and 1906.

As of 2020, the yachts are 117 years old.

Alfred Mylne designed the seven yachts.

The total voting population in the Republic's inhabited islands is just over 2,600 people, according to the Department of Housing.

Dublin Bay Sailing Club (DBSC) commissioned the boat to encourage inexpensive one-design racing to recognise the success of the Water Wag one-design dinghy of 1887 and the Colleen keelboat class of 1897.

Estelle built by Hollwey, 1903; Garavogue built by Kelly, 1903; Innisfallen built by Hollwey, 1903.; Maureen built by Hollwey, 1903.; Oola built by Kelly, 1905; Naneen built by Clancy, 1905.

Overall length- 32'-6', Beam- 7'-6", Keel lead- 2 tons Sail area - 600sq.ft

The first race took place on 19 June 1903 in Dublin Bay.

They may be the oldest intact class of racing keelboat yacht in the world. Sailing together in a fleet, they are one of the loveliest sights to be seen on any sailing waters in the world, according to many Dublin Bay aficionados.

In 1964, some of the owners thought that the boats were outdated, and needed a new breath of fresh air. After extensive discussions between all the owners, the gaff rig and timber mast was abandoned in favour of a more fashionable Bermudan rig with an aluminium mast. Unfortunately, this rig put previously unseen loads on the hulls, resulting in some permanent damage.

The fleet was taken out of the water in 1986 after Hurricane Charlie ruined active Dublin Bay 21 fleet racing in August of that year. Two 21s sank in the storm, suffering the same fate as their sister ship Estelle four years earlier. The class then became defunct. In 1988, master shipwright Jack Tyrrell of Arklow inspected the fleet and considered the state of the hulls as vulnerable, describing them as 'still restorable even if some would need a virtual rebuild'. The fleet then lay rotting in a farmyard in Arklow until 2019 and the pioneering project of Dun Laoghaire sailors Fionan De Barra and Hal Sisk who decided to bring them back to their former glory.

Hurricane Charlie finally ruined active Dublin Bay 21 fleet racing in August 1986. Two 21s sank in the storm, suffering the same fate as a sister ship four years earlier; Estelle sank twice, once on her moorings and once in a near-tragic downwind capsize. Despite their collective salvage from the sea bed, the class decided the ancient boats should not be allowed suffer anymore. To avoid further deterioration and risk to the rare craft all seven 21s were put into storage in 1989 under the direction of the naval architect Jack Tyrrell at his yard in Arklow.

While two of the fleet, Garavogue and Geraldine sailed to their current home, the other five, in various states of disrepair, were carried the 50-odd miles to Arklow by road.

To revive the legendary Dublin Bay 21 class, the famous Mylne design of 1902-03. Hal Sisk and Fionan de Barra are developing ideas to retain the class's spirit while making the boats more appropriate to today's needs in Dun Laoghaire harbour, with its many other rival sailing attractions. The Dublin Bay 21-foot class's fate represents far more than the loss of a single class; it is bad news for the Bay's yachting heritage at large. Although Dún Laoghaire turned a blind eye to the plight of the oldest intact one-design keelboat fleet in the world for 30 years or more they are now fully restored.

The Dublin Bay 21 Restoration team includes Steve Morris, James Madigan, Hal Sisk, Fionan de Barra, Fintan Ryan and Dan Mill.

Retaining the pure Mylne-designed hull was essential, but the project has new laminated cold-moulded hulls which are being built inverted but will, when finished and upright, be fitted on the original ballast keels, thereby maintaining the boat’s continuity of existence, the presence of the true spirit of the ship.

It will be a gunter-rigged sloop. It was decided a simpler yet clearly vintage rig was needed for the time-constrained sailors of the 21st Century. So, far from bringing the original and almost-mythical gaff cutter rig with jackyard topsail back to life above a traditionally-constructed hull, the project is content to have an attractive gunter-rigged sloop – “American gaff” some would call it.

The first DB 21 to get the treatment was Naneen, originally built in 1905 by Clancy of Dun Laoghaire for T. Cosby Burrowes, a serial boat owner from Cavan.

On Dublin Bay. Dublin Bay Sailing Club granted a racing start for 2020 Tuesday evening racing starting in 2020, but it was deferred due to COVID-19.
Initially, two Dublin Bay 21s will race then three as the boat building project based in Kilrush on the Shannon Estuary completes the six-boat project.
The restored boats will be welcomed back to the Bay in a special DBSC gun salute from committee boat Mac Lir at the start of the season.
In a recollection for Afloat, well known Dun Laoghaire one-design sailor Roger Bannon said: "They were complete bitches of boats to sail, over-canvassed and fundamentally badly balanced. Their construction and design was also seriously flawed which meant that they constantly leaked and required endless expensive maintenance. They suffered from unbelievable lee helm which led to regular swamping's and indeed several sinkings.

©Afloat 2020