Despite her move into academia, Easkey Britton says she is still “in a surfing way of life”.
The Donegal-reared women’s surfing pioneer was recently profiled by BBC Sport, and explained how her experiences on the waves put her “on the front line of changes that are happening on the marine environment”.
She also acknowledges the “powerful and cultural connection” between people and the environment that surfing can create — something of which she has first-hand knowledge in bringing women’s surfing to Iran nearly a decade ago.
“It’s the feeling and the connection that you are after,” she says of the ocean’s pull. “When people have those kinds of experiences, there's an openness.”
BBC Sport has more on the story HERE.
