Winterising Your Boat

The whole idea of winterisation can be about as appealing as having a tooth filled – and possibly as expensive – but there’s no substitute for being prepared, and a reluctance to cough up the necessary budget can be a false economy in the long run.

Of course, winterisation is not a word that will stir much enthusiasm in the breast of the average boat-owner, bringing home the fact that summer is over and the evenings will now close in with unprecedented speed.

However, the W-word could be quite painless, even fun, if you are into that sort of thing. And most sailors love their boats – it being a source of pride and pleasure – and want to keep them in top condition.

This Afloat guide to winterising your boat will steer you towards those who can do the job for you, or at least give you useful advice so that you don’t end up standing in the dark, cold, wet, and frustrated, with oil on your clothes and an engine strewn all over the driveway.

It may be true that in the depths of winter lies an invincible summer.

What the trade say

Upping the revs

There’s another word we’re scared of using – recession. The R-word is so prevalent these days that it’s just a bore, so we’re not going to utter it any more. That said, everyone’s being more careful with their money – but misplaced thrift could end up costing the earth.

Sean Walsh of Dun Laoghaire Yacht Services says that any yachtsman worth his salt will equip himself with enough knowledge about his boat to ensure it’s serviced properly. At the very least, to know the servicing schedule of the boat, whether he does it himself or gets it done elsewhere. “A small percentage will ask for advice, or will watch while it’s being serviced, and I’m more than happy to do that and talk them through it,” says Sean. He says it’s very important that your engine is serviced once a year. Diesel engines produce bad contaminants and if they’re allowed to remain they can damage the engine. At the end of the season, oil and filters need to be changed at a bare minimum. A change of anodes is critical, says Sean, and fuel must be topped up so there’s no room for condensation.

Brian Thornton of Performance Marine in Leitrim has seen several engines which weren’t serviced for the winter and now, instead of the service costing 300 euro, it’s costing 8k+ to replace. Brian says “inland winterising is absolutely necessary, as temperatures can fall to minus 12 degrees inland so if the engine freezes, the engine block goes – you’re looking at a new engine if that happens.”
 
There’s a lot of small powerboats around now, according to Gerry Salmon of MGM Boatyard in Dun Laoghaire, and they need flushing with water/anti-freeze/coolant before they’re ‘put in the garden’. “Drainplugs have to be removed, water flushed through the bilge – the boat will have it’s own drain so that must be opened and drained. Water tanks should be emptied if it’s coming out of the water. If it’s staying in the water, it has to have diesel tanks topped up full.” Gerry agrees engine servicing is a must so that it’s ready for the season ahead: “the work can be done over the winter after all the wear and tear, rather than waiting for April when possibly parts can’t be sourced, etc.”

Bob Killen of Killen Marine in Dalkey says that most boat owners are maintaining what they have rather than re-engining. Bob notices that customers are far more conscious of price and will check out the cost more thoroughly than they would have a year ago, before they agree to have the work done. Unlike a car, an outboard engine or boat repair can’t be exactly quoted for, but experienced engineers or boat builders can give price guidelines in most cases, and Killen Marine do their utmost in this regard.

“You wouldn’t park your car in the garden for six months, of the winter without preventative maintainence, never mind something that has been subjected to a harsh marine enviroment”, says Ian O’Mara at Viking Marine in Dun Laoghaire. “Engine manuals all carry extensive detail on winterising (RTFM); and finally – beware of moisture. The biggest cause of long-term harm is caused by engines being put away for the winter with moisture still in the system: winterising is essentially protecting against water contamination”, he continues. Other ‘must do’s’ from Ian: “stabilise fuel – there’s plenty of additives available that reduce/remove moisture from fuel; run/flush engine on stabilised fuel; fogging oil in all moving parts (works as barrier to moisture); fuel and oil filters; gearbox oil – must be marine grade; check impellor; store engine in a cool dry place, such as a boiler house, if possible (not too warm as heat can speed up rust); remove portable fuel tanks (stabilise fuel); remove and disconnect battery from boat and store fully charged, not on concrete, go to the pub...”

My beautiful boat

When it comes to the aesthetics – the outside of the boat – maybe it’s easier to DIY? Not necessarily. One boat maintenance company says that when it comes to varnish, people think one or two coats is fine but it doesn’t do the job. They recommend eight coats initially and then 2–3 coats every year. For an osmosis cure there’s no half measures: repairing the blisters without getting rid of the damp in the laminate is like trying to paint wet wood – a waste of time.

However, Liam Phelan of Marine & Industrial has seen a big increase in attendees at M&Is boat polishing and GelCoating courses, held all over the country at various marinas and clubs. At an Inland Waterways venue at Carrick-on-Shannon, 28 people showed up to learn how to look after their boat themselves! One chap, after doing the course, polished up his boat and made it look so good someone bought it – so off he went and bought another boat to do up. Liam says that their polishing machines are selling well, and are easy to use: lightweight and mobile. “If you’re being quoted 600 euro to polish a 43-footer, you may consider doing it yourself instead!”, says Liam.

With the boating community making the most of what they’ve got instead of trading up, boatyards are seeing more of the older boats, although it’s a little early to say if there’s a change in maintenance trends since this time two years ago. Ross Hall of Hall Marine Services says he hasn’t seen a downturn in the number of regular clients who use his company for lift-outs and anti-fouling, although believes it may be harder to attract new customers, and he has noticed more people trying to DIY their winterisation jobs. Ross also believes that people who are selling their boats aren’t necessarily getting the usual work done before the sale.

Noonan Boats in Greystones, Co. Wicklow, say that their new covered space at the boatyard, which now takes boats in excess of 50ft, was a great investment. The size of the space means a faster turnaround in work as weather no longer delays jobs, and there’s increased interest in maintaining craft and keeping them seaworthy. Repainting and osmosis treatments are on the up, because they add to the boat’s value. As Tony and Graeme Noonan say: “If you think it’s expensive to get work done professionally, wait until you see what it costs when you get an amateur and things go wrong!”

Ricardo Silva has been head of GRProClean for the last two years, and says their system is so effective they get a great response from clients and quite a lot of word-of-mouth references. Ricardo says: “If fibreglass isn’t cleaned, the outer layer (GelCoat) – which is very thin – gets dull as UV rays affect it. It’s slightly porous so abrasives can’t be used. It’s not suitable as a DIY project. GRProClean’s system stays on the fiberglass for an average of a year.”

Getting it shifted

It’s good to know that there’s several sectors finding an increased demand for their services. For instance, boat transport is not always something that owners can do themselves, and one company started up in response to a perceived gap in the market. David Jones of Amazon Transport needed his boat towed but couldn’t find a suitable mover. Now he specialises in transporting boats of up to 3.5 tonnes and/or 25–27ft. He says: “It’s difficult to find a reputable, fully-insured mover in this size range, with good quality trailers. It’s possible to paint a trailer and make it look good, but it could be rusty with bad bearings – a death trap.”
Whitten Road Haulage, with over 30 years of experience, feel that one aspect that sometimes overlooked is the ‘escort vehicle’ which alerts other road users and pedestrians of the imminent ‘abnormal load’. Tommy Lyndon says; “the escort vehicle, along with the occupants, should be equipped with 2-way radio systems, hazard warning and first-aid equipment”. They should also be in possession of awareness of legislation in various jurisdictions, which varies, and when an Abnormal Load Permit is required.

“In Ireland, the Abnormal Load Permit system is independently administered by each Local Authority and, accordingly, each journey will require separate application to each of the Council areas through which it is proposed to travel. Each application requires a different Form, requesting different amounts of information, with different lead-in times and, of course, a fee in each case”, says Tommy.


Nigel Sands from Sands Marine would agree – he knows of two customers who bought boats in the UK which were put on the wrong trailer, the gauges weren’t working, and the trailer bent. To add insult to injury, the boat didn’t get a proper Pre-Delivery Inspection (PDI), and, as the local dealer, he got the call to sort it out. So buying abroad isn’t necessarily a money-saving exercise as the above would seem to show: for example, untested engines can be put into boats but the problem doesn’t become visible until the boat is far away from the seller. Dealing locally means you get the after-sales service that’s so crucial to a happy sailor.

Starting out

While our research revealed that servicing is up and boat sales are down, James Lyons of Sovereign Yacht Sales in Kinsale is surprised at how active the boat market is right now; “people are buying, especially the starter boat market, and particularly where sellers are prepared to be realistic about prices.”

That’s a take on the trade that Paul Kearney of M and R Marine agrees with, because, although business has been quieter than usual, “servicing and spare parts are in demand; and boat sales are down but the smaller boats are actually selling.”

The last word

As could be said for any maintenance, to ensure the best job is done it needs to be carried out by a qualified professional with the knowledge and skill to get it done properly. The right products and materials are vital to the success of a maintenance job.

Boat owners are well advised to be cautious when accepting contractors, making sure it is someone with a good reputation and the appropriate skills. For instance, there have been reports of yachts being antifouled with a certain trawler paint – much cheaper than the top brands – which takes a lot more effort to remove and repair, and is harmful to marine sea life.

There will always be ‘entrepreneurs’ looking to make a few extra euro offering all sorts of services at reduced prices, but these individuals may not have the requisite expertise or experience to do a proper job, so having someone do a ‘nixer’ on your boat is a risky business.

Our advice is: take your time, ask around, make sure that the person working on your boat is legitimate and properly insured. You won’t save money if you have to have the same job done twice – the second time to fix the first effort. The phrase: ‘You get what you pay for’ is just as true now as it ever was.

Work, work, work...

Trying to find out what constitutes ‘boat winterising’ was a total education: who knew there was so much involved? Of course, I’m not a boat owner although I have been out on the water (I know the ferry doesn’t count), but – quite frankly –  it’s a daunting list. Not liking hard work in any shape or form, I’d be very tempted to hand over my pride and joy to someone else to do all that labour. If you’re made of sterner stuff, read on...

Engine health

Winterising the engine

Just before hauling the boat from the water, run the engine for 10–15 minutes until it reaches operating temperature, then change the lube oil and filter, as contaminates in the old oil can cause corrosion.

Disconnect the cooling water supply pipe from the seacock. Arrange a freshwater supply from a 2–3 gallon bucket. Drain off block and remove thermostat. Replace thermostat housing and inspect the anodes for corrosion, if fitted.

Run engine again, this time using an antifreeze solution. Antifreeze should be at the recommended strength and, with turbo engines, ensure that the correct antifreeze is used: the cheaper types burn off with the high temperature of turbocharging.

The fuel system should be drained of water but if the diesel filter is changed it’s possible that, on launching at the start of the new season, you’ll find the new filters have become clogged while the boat was standing idle.

Again drain off block and replace thermostat (clean it first). Gearbox and hydraulic systems should be checked and the oil changed if required. Flush the raw water system with fresh water, but make sure that it’s all drained off as frost damage can be a real problem.

On craft with sterndrive bellows and jubilee clips should be carefully checked, and by servicing them now the chance of seizing is offset.

Replace the fuel filter element and, if fitted, clean out the water/dirt trap.

Fill the fuel tank to the maximum to prevent bacteria forming – ‘diesel bug’ – and to prevent condensation during the winter.

Auxiliary outboards should be taken home, serviced and stored in an upright position. If they’re stored lying on their side, water can damage the main bearings leading to nasty rumbles and expense.

Touch up any areas which need paint, grease all necessary points and spray the entire block with WD40 or it’s equivalent.

Raw-water cooled engines

Remove the air cleaner cover and with the engine decompressed and the stop button level fully out, spray a small amount of anti-corrosive oil into the air intake port while turning the engine over by hand (2–3 revolutions only). Wash air cleaner element with soapy water and dry. Replace air cleaner and cover. Release the decompression level.

Turn engine onto compression stroke, release the stop lever and cover the air intake to prevent damp air ingression.

And while you’re at it...

• Remove alternator belt and cooling water pump belt and tie to engine. Grease the pulleys. On recommissioning the boat, remove the grease with white spirit or petrol

• If possible, disconnect the flexible exhaust pipe and cover the exhaust manifold opening

• Before recommissioning the boat, remove the propshaft coupling bolts and check for coupling misalignment. The recommended tolerance for misalignment is: Coupling Misalignment: 0.1– 0.3mm (0.0039–0.0118 inches); Coupling Face Run Out: 0–0.2mm (0–0.0079 inches)

The Hull

Growth and barnacles are easier to remove the day the boat is lifted. The outside should be washed with fresh water and then carefully checked for damage to the surface. Scrub the bottom of the boat to remove weed and barnacles, then inspect for cracks, blisters, rot or corrosion.

Check the sterngear for wear by lifting the shaft vertically and looking for any sign of looseness in the stern-gland or P-bracket bearings. Inspect outdrives and check on the condition of all sacrificial anodes. If there is very little change to the anodes, have the connections inspected as they should wear down. Any which are seriously eroded should be replaced. If they look shiny or have developed a pale brown colour, they are not doing their job. The most likely cause is that the electrical connection between the anode and the boat’s metal fittings has become disconnected

Check the rudder for wear in the bearings. Inspect for cracks or corrosion, particularly where it joins the shaft.

Inspect the propeller for any signs of damage or corrosion and ensure that it is tight on the shaft
Paintwork and varnish should be repaired to prevent the ingress of water. Deck fittings can gradually become loose during a season and can lead to water trickling into the interior. Clean the covers and repair any tears as winter storms can destroy a cover in an instant. Check that all cockpit drains are clear, especially the drain hole and anchor locker.

Electrics

Of all the equipment on the boat, electronic gear can cause the most trouble if not winterised. WD40 can be used in most instances and for battery connections, exposed sockets and plugs, Vaseline is a great protector.
The batteries must be properly maintained over the cold months and should be ‘trickle charged’ (charging at a similar rate as to its self-discharging, thus maintaining a full capacity battery) every 4–6 weeks to keep them in good condition. Don’t be tempted to leave a battery charger permanently connected as this can lead to plates in the battery warping and loss of performance.
Take home any gear which is easily detachable, remembering to Vaseline the plugs left exposed.

Interior

Wash the bilges and dry them thoroughly. This has the twofold effect of eliminating nasty bilge smells and makes the task of checking the interior mouldings and laminates for stress fractures easier. Ventilation is very important to stop mildew forming and, if an electricity supply is available, a dehumidifier will keep the boat dry and fresh. Hatches and engine covers should be left open to ensure a constant circulation of air, and cushions, bedding, etc., removed. Seacocks and toilets should be serviced now.
Freshwater systems can be drained and if a gas geyser is fitted, remember to drain it also. Gas supply should be isolated and, finally, give everything a really good clean.

Equipment

Warps and ropes should be left somewhere dry, whilst fenders can be cleaned and stored safely. If a dinghy is carried on davits, one winter left hanging can equate to four seasons of normal wear, so take it home. The anchor, chain and warp should be hosed and checked for weaknesses, especially the shackles. If the VHF aerial can be dropped, do so, and tie it up to stop it whipping all winter. Finally, take all non-secured equipment with you.

When all this is done, relax in the knowledge that you’ll have a healthy boat to restock in the spring, and start planning your 2010 cruises.

REPRODUCED FROM SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2009 AFLOAT

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